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Hand to Mouth to India
Chapter 01


(England, France, Luxembourg) I walked out one midsummer’s morning to hitchhike to India with no money at all. I had with me my clarinet, a sleeping bag, a ticket for the boat to France and a couple of loaves of date bread so as to be sure of not starving to death within the first day or two. I paused beneath a giant billboard poster of Tony Blair smooching the street with his smarmy, sinister smile and then walked on to exchange grey cities for palm tree beaches, politicians for snake charmers. A stranger in my hometown, I walked down to the coastal road with little but my freedom on my back

Already a memory were the touching farewells of heartfelt friends and bosom buddies I never knew I had, who had sprung out into my path around town to suffocate me in tight emotional embraces

Not many thought I’d get very far  or even survive,  and with tearful reluctance they crossed me off their Christmas card lists

But all camaraderie dies when you hit the road alone and prepare for the vessels of Fate to bear down upon you in screeching metal boxes on wheels. Standing as an exposed and anonymous figure with an aching thumb, it’s an old journeying adage that there’s a fine line between hitchhiking and waiting by the side of the road like an idiot

My first lift pulled up within minutes and I jumped in without a glance back

"I’m going to India!" I told the driver smugly  as I strapped on my seat-belt

"Well, I can take you as far as the university…" he told me doubtfully

A couple of rides later, I was sitting on the pebbles of Hastings Beach, eating a farewell meal of English haute cuisine fish ‘n’ chips. The sea was smothered in a miserable gloom and refused to yield any hint of what might lie ahead. But during the previous winter in Goa, I had sat at the feet of various hobo gurus and learnt that if you have eaten this day then you are successful. Period. Providence had already provided well for me in a penniless tour of springtime Europe. But fear has the habit of mushrooming back up at even the thought of rain and so I flicked open the pages of Kahil Gibran’s "The Prophet", to seek some confirmation. I read:

"Is not the fear of being thirsty when your well is full, the very thirst that is unquenchable? And what is fear of need but need itself?" Things were going to be fine. More or less. I threw the grease-soaked wrapper of my chips down toward the moody waves and turned to stomp back through the stones to the road, large and weighty doors of the past slamming shut behind me.



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